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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.